Day 25 on the Camino Frances, Vega de Valcarce to Linares

As I left Vega de Valcarce I noted that the countryside had become noticeably greener and the houses and farms more well kept and prosperous. I was in shade and fog for a lot of the morning, heading uphill to a pass over a ridge of mountains.

I found breakfast at a vegetarian cafe in La Faba, and when I asked for eggs and bacon, they were happy to serve me that, plus cafe con leche and orange juice.

Still going uphill, I passed from the state of Castilla and Leon into Galicia. Galicia was governed by Rome at one time, but never conquered by the Moors when they conquered the rest of Spain from the Visigothic kings. Many Visigothic knights and nobles fled to Galicia and eventually expanded from Galicia and took back the rest of Spain from the Moors. Called the Reconquista, it was completed in 1492 by Isabelle and Ferdinands. They funded Christopher Columbus’ voyage the same year.

As I neared the top of the pass the scenery was pretty nice, and the view back was impressive.

There was a town at the top of the pass, O’Cebriero, and it seemed pretty crowded with dozens of pilgrims and a few bus loads of tourists. This was busier than anywhere on the trail so far. The road through O’Cebriero seemed to be a popular tourist stop, and I saw lots of bikes. I had met several pleasant hikers, and we had food and I bought some jewelry for the folks at home. The walk ahead was about as pretty as what I had seen in the morning, and I headed to Linares, a few miles away. Next time I’ll stay at O’Cebriero, at 12.4 km from Vega de Valcarce.

I got to Linares by 3 or so, pooped and ready for a shower. There were two albergues in that little spot on the hiway (not really a town). The one shown below was also the location of a farm equipment dealer, and a grocery store and cafe.

My albergue was new, clean, and pleasant. I shared a room with 4 beds and 3 people in them, and it cost $12.